A restaurant with such a name suggests a perky, clean atmosphere not unlike a bar of soap. And while Zest's food certainly taste's better than shower soap, it has an exceptionally clean, museum-style feel. Not an object in the restaurant's premises, from a spoon to a hair on the host's head, is out of place. The classical strings music piped through the speakers, which contributes to a serene mood, has nary a violin note askew. It is exactly what one would expect from the swanky Hotel Intercontinental.

While the formality threatens to overwhelm the food and dominate the entire experience, there are a couple of funky aspects to Zest. The first is the chair backs, which extend upward far beyond any chairs I've yet seen, much like rabbits' ears. Throughout the restaurant, the colors match somewhat oddly, with olive and beige doing battle against dark tan and standard white.

Zest offers a lengthy menu, with dozens of plates for lunch and dinner. The lunch portion gives you a handful of salads and sandwiches to choose from, ranging from $8 to $13.50. The Atlantic salmon and squash ravioli highlight a list of eight lunch entrees. At night, Zest offers a seafood-heavy slate with a creative mixture of ingredients matched only by the imagination of the restaurant's atmosphere. Of the dozen or so entree selections, the paella Valencia, an appetizing mix of scallops, shrimp, chorizo, chicken and calamari, is at the vanguard. The prices also tick up at dinnertime, with most entrees coming in at around $20; the filet mignon tops the list at $29. Kick off your day of serious Mag Mile shopping here, as Zest is open for breakfast, too.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Patrick Corcoran