Yu Shan is the place you've passed by walking around downtown a million times. You either never noticed it, losing it amid the glare of nearby fast food chains' bright neon signs, or you've always been a bit curious about the place.

Looking at it, one gets the impression it's been there forever, and it's easy to imagine an era a few decades back, where downtown Chinese restaurants may have been a daring and exotic choice, fueling the afternoons of offices filled with real life Mad Men.

Today, Yu Shan is a dependable takeout and delivery option downtown. The small space does offer a few tables, but there's no real service to speak of at this counter joint. The prices make it perfect to allow the occasional self-indulgence when you're sick of hauling your lunch downtown or the other local options.

Handily, the website allows you to place your order online as you browse, making it convenient for the days when you can't escape work. Prices seem to be a bit on the higher side, often ranging from $8-$14 for full entrees, but Yu Shan makes up for that by offering huge portions.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman