Residents of the South Loop could be forgiven for thinking that Yang Chinese Restaurant would remain permanently closed thanks to a long-since-passed water main break. Now re-opened for dining and takeout, the front of the restaurant is once again crowded with workers who've stopped in on their way home for its inexpensive yet satisfying take on Chinese cuisine.

Much of Yang's appeal is due to its convenient location near the Roosevelt L stop, which also makes it perfect for dine-in. Popular with college students, the service is friendly and attentive and the abundant lighting compliments the clean and relaxed feel.

With an extensive dinner menu, Yang caters to a variety of tastes and appetites. Though prices have increased about a quarter, most large entrees are still around $8. New to the menu are seafood dishes like sesame shrimp and squid with broccoli, as well as additional options for vegetarians who enjoy some spice with their tofu.

Big appetites and big spenders should try one of the signature dishes like Singapore rice noodles or seafood chow fun, though the care and attention given to the food is evident even in such basics as shrimp fried rice and chicken with broccoli. Lunch entrees are a bargain: most run less than $6 and come with salad and shrimp fried rice. BYOB, with a $2 per person corkage fee.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Scott Smith