For the longest time, the Wormhole did have a lot in common with a near invisible point in space. The only evidence of its existence was an unpeopled location and a charmingly handcrafted website. The occasional missive would come through, tidbits of deliciously worded City Hall minutiae and a call for devoted minions.

And that kind of irreverence is seldom seen in Chicago these days. In the mid-'90s, scruffy little outfits opened up seemingly everywhere, and they had the kind of character that wasn't born in an ad agency. There's obviously been a bit of money poured into this wormhole, between the Delorean model inside and the Wicker Park location, but you aren't even tempted to fault it. It feels like they're keeping it real, for real.

Metropolis Coffee is the bean here, of course, and there are the edibles one expects from a cafe, with a selection of vegan offerings. Between the cheap coffee and the free wifi, the Wormhole got the minions it asked for and then some.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman