Patrons praise the "beyond attentive" service at this rustic Italian country ristorante. The spacious bar up front, which offers a hearty wine list for under $8 a glass, moves at a comfortable pace; arrive early and enjoy a glass before dinner. The dishes really are as good as they sound, making your choice a difficult but guaranteed one.

Start with the salsiccia alla griglia, grilled fennel-porcini sausage with braised borlotti beans and escarole, or the polenta con funghi, grilled polenta with Portobello and cremini mushrooms in a porcini mushroom broth. Several gourmet pizzas transform a greasy indulgence into a classy choice. Pasta (such as farfalle with roast duck, Tuscan cabbage and parmigiano), vegetarian, meat and seafood entrees round out the menu. Finish with one of the exceptional desserts; the zucotto, a dome-shape cake with dark and white chocolate filling, raspberry sauce and pistachios is a standout.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Erin Brereton