What Toro Sushi lacks in modernity it makes up for tenfold in sentimental touches. Signs of chef/owner Mitch Kim's close relationships with his customers adorn the walls: photographs of Kim with Blackhawks players (and Toro fans), a Crayola-drawn self-portrait from a young diner and a rotating exhibit of customers' artwork.

Even some of the menu's innovative rolls are derived from customers' requests, like the shrimp and unagi-filled Oh My God. Arrive before rush hour and he might treat you to a custom roll. You'll find the usual suspects, but the less-rote rolls wow. Try the Coco, with grilled chicken teriyaki; the Ninja, with deep-fried spicy tuna and calamari; or the Kamikaze, with tuna, salmon, yellow tail, red snapper and white tuna. Kim keeps it fresh by adding a new type of maki each month.

Entrees and appetizers cater to diners of all persuasions and include grilled mussels, deep-fried soft-shell crab, beef teriyaki, udon noodle soup and vegetable tempura. At $4.99-$6.99, the lunch hour bento box is a steal and includes varying options of miso soup, salad and entree combinations.

Set an intimate, if not slightly cramped space with a BYOB, sans-corkage-fee policy, the restaurant finds diners lingering over their meals, which can add up to a one-hour wait. Eat hearty, as there's a $20 credit card minimum.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Jessica Herman