Unless you speak fluent Cantonese, be sure to stretch your index fingers before taking a trip to Three Happiness for dim sum. Pointing at dishes as they glide past your table on carts is generally the way to order, particularly when you don't know what you're requesting. The mystery is half the fun.

Follow the metal staircase to the second floor, where you'll find a sparsely decorated room and an army of white-cloaked tables awaiting your arrival. But decor is irrelevant here—as soon as you're seated, the carts start rolling. Prize-winning picks include the fried sticky rice with pork sausage and every kind of dumplings.

No adventure is without risks: The chicken feet, though tasty, are trying on the teeth. It's never clear how much anything costs, but a group of four will eat amply on $12/person, tip included (so an uneaten dish is no big deal).

A tip for the late riser: Try to arrive early to get the food at its freshest; tin containers don't stay hot forever. When dim sum ends at 3 p.m., the regular menu takes over, featuring many of the same dishes as entrees as well as house specialty casseroles.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Mac McCormick