Since 1927, the Italian Village has been providing good meals to Loopers. Over several decades, the restaurant has passed through three generations of managers and opened two sister restaurants in the building: La Cantina Enoteca (a seafood restaurant), and Vivere (a wine-focused steakhouse that takes design cues from an actual wine cellar). But going up the narrow staircase and seeing the dark blue painted sky on the ceiling, one can immediately tell that the Village is the true original. The ceiling's effect is multiplied with tiny twinkling bulbs set throughout like stars, trailing down to a cut-out mural of an Italian village against the walls. The decor might be a bit gaudy, but its age makes it impossible not to love.

The waitstaff approach you promptly, and don't waste time – many of them have been working there for a decade or two, and fit well into their vests and button-up shirts. The wine list is short, and is paired with their specials of the day, which they encourage strongly with a flip of the menu for you.

The food is traditional, unexperimental fare – stuffed chicken breast, ravioli, steak and the like are all done well, without garnish or pretense. The dessert menu continues the trend, with a solid tiramisu, a large slice of rum cake and a number of other old favorites for about $5 apiece. While the Village won't impress anyone looking for a new twist on their food, it will give some nostalgia for those who don't mind that nothing has changed here for over half a century, and has no plans to start now.

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge