Tel Aviv Kosher Pizza is a restaurant full of contradictions. Take its name for example. Tel Aviv is a colossus of a city full of modern technological marvels; Tel Aviv Kosher Pizza is a quaint neighborhood pizza joint with no servers, no host and very few available garbage cans. In essence, it's the epitome of "no frills" dining. Combine that with the fact that of the dozen or so pictures of Israel that hang from its pallid tile walls, not a one of them bears the restaurant's namesake. Expect to be greeted by an either a "shalom" or an "hola," depending on who's behind the counter, and despite its often raucous dinner rushes, Tel Aviv is as peaceful as any bistro's nook.

According to Jewish law, foods that contain either meat or dairy must not be eaten together, so Tel Aviv is strictly a dairy restaurant with an exceedingly diverse menu of American, Israeli and Latin dishes at rock-bottom prices. Tuna sandwiches served in a pita are light, mixed with only a hint of mayonnaise and go surprisingly well with chimichangas and a falafel ball. Most pizzas are ordered New York-style, by the slice, though pan-pizza is also available. Though in and of itself the pizza is hardly remarkable, what's so amazing about the way Tel Aviv serves its pies is the gusto in which patrons indulge in their doughy slices: It's like nothing north of Lou Malantis.

The nacho appetizer explodes with saucy refried beans and is far crispier than most Mexican places. Soups like vegetable and onion are both hearty and full meals on their own, although the vegetable broth can run a bit thin. Pastas, which are served dente in a luxuriant and robust tomato sauce, are also very popular and it's not uncommon to see couples sharing a plate of gooey lasagna. The most expensive item on the menu is fresh broiled salmon available for $11.95.

Centerstage Reviewer: Adam White