Despite its seedy, strip mall joint façade, Taste of Peru is the kind of authentic family establishment that knows how to keep its regulars. Maybe it's the mysterious "green sauce" that comes with your bread at the beginning of the meal (careful, it has quite the kick) or the gregarious owner who's been known to share his family photo album with customers. Or perhaps it's the refreshing surprise of finding food this good in the midst of fluorescent-lit-restaurant central on N. Clark Street.

And good it is. Seafood-lovers go for the generously portioned ceviche, accompanied by warm sweet potato, or the parihuela, soup packed with shrimp, squid, scallops, crab, oysters and octopus. Given choices like pollo en salsa de mani, chicken in a yummy peanut sauce, and papa a la diablo con bistek, potatoes and steak in a cream sauce, selecting an entree can challenge even the most decisive of diners, but the staff happily recommend their favorites.

Prices are steeper than the environment would have you expect (most dishes fall in the $10-$15 range), but well worth it for the amount of food and flavor. Plus, you'll save with its BYOB policy. After its appearance on WTTW's Check, Please!, the place rarely stops buzzing, especially Thursdays through Sundays when live music attracts even more of a crowd; call in a reservation to avoid a long wait.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Emily Browne