Get ready to redefine your definition of a chef's table: at Andersonville sushi spot Tanoshii, it's the sushi bar that's the most coveted seat in the house. Without spending $100 a head, diners get a custom-made meal, fashioned from a simple explanation of preferences and the chef's thoughts on the day's freshest catch. And it's not just any chef. The ever-chatty "Sushi Mike," of previous Hama Matsu fame, made good on his word to open his own place, bringing his signature style to the forefront.

High blood pressure sufferers needn't a worry. Sushi Mike doesn't just tell you to forgo the soy sauce (which can drown out the flavor): he watches you eat the piece to make sure. You'll be glad you followed his instructions after savoring impossibly thin slices of avocado, a spicy sauce that puts liquid, mayo-based varieties to shame and melt-in-your mouth amber jack, sea bass tuna and more. Be honest: admit to the fact you're not comfortable with raw fish or are on a low-carb diet and you'll be taken care of; even fans of all things bready will enjoy riceless handrolls wrapped in lettuce and spring roll-like maki stuffed with fish and veggies. In addition to custom rolls (our request for a macked-out spicy scallop roll was more than fulfilled), you can order from a roster of entrees, sushi and standard maki. BYOB.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Zinny Fandel