You’d never think such big business could be rung up when all you’re hawking is tamales, but this colorful Rogers Park tamale house literally sells ‘em like hotcakes.
Loyal masa fans filter in all day long for the absurdly addictive cornhusk-encased tamales, especially the tender pork and chicken varieties ($1.25 each), but if you don’t wake up with the birds, good luck scoring the most coveted of the bunch (frijoles con queso). Be wise and grab a big fruity soda from the cooler if you’re going for the tongue-searing jalapeno and cheese (queso con rajas) stuffed bullet – or, a glass of super sweet horchata works just as well.
Guerrero, a Southwestern state in Mexico, is famous for its pozole (a complex hominy stew) and come Saturday and Sunday, a few big pots are brewing in the back kitchen. For $5, you get a healthy bowl of glossy white, bright green or rich red pozole, along with all the proper side effects that really liven it up: avocado, onions, chicharrones, dried oregano, chiles, and tostados. The chewy pieces of hominy (hulled and dried corn kernels) are huge and there’s plenty of shredded meat layered throughout to fill you up for the entire day. Once you pepper the entire bowl with a hefty amount of zingy lime squirts, you’ll have the real deal, Guerrero-style. The weekend also brings out mammoth plates of chocolate brown mole, as well as vats of the popular hangover cure, homespun bowls of menudo (tripe soup).
The take-out business here is on fire and you can be sure that by the time you get home with your steaming hot plastic baggie full of tamales, you’ll wish you’d sprung for the 12-pack. Two little old tamales just don’t cut it when the flavors are this magical.
For those with a hankering for sweets, the kitchen also churns out some bang-up strawberry and pineapple tamales, both of which are delicious when paired with homemade arroz con leche. Bring cash or a big appetite, since there’s an enforced $10 credit card minimum.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Misty Tosh