Bienvenue! Don't speak French? Neither do I. Fortunately, I do speak pastry, which brings me to Sweet Thang, neighborhood patisserie par excellence. Owner Chef Bernard Runo grew up in Wicker Park but studied abroad at the illustrious Ecole Ferrandi before returning home. His mission has been "bringing pastry to the masses" since setting up shop in 1998.

While known for his custom wedding, novelty and (ooh la la) erotic cakes, Runo is equally fluent in all things fresh and flaky. Come and brunch on brioche or panini, croissants or croques. You'll wonder how a quiche can be so light and airy while still so sumptuous and smooth (hint: they call it culinary art for a reason). But that's not really what you came for, is it?

Here temptation has many names though some are hard to pronounce: foret noire, milles-feuilles, raspberry coconut roulade, tarts, scones, canolis, eclairs, flans, cheesecakes, cookies, danishes and, yes, even your standard sticky bun. Peel apart a soft almond palmier over cappuccinos or relish a delicate mousse that's as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palette. Prices depend on the size and shape of your sweet, but a quick bite won't cost you more than $3-$6.

The faux-French digs seat around 20 with heart-shaped chairs, cafe tables and a velvet chaise near the window where passersby stop to ogle the displays of quirky cakes. The flaking red paint, peeling wallpaper and black and white pics of Parisian life exude a shabby, old-world charm. After an hour of fine food, chatting amiably with the French speaking staff or simply grooving on their favorite French R&B, you'll half-expect to step outside and see the River Seine. Alas, no. Ah, c'est la vie.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Foreman