Southern Indian cuisine favors rice, in addition to the fermented and easily digestible mixture of rice and lentils that makes dosas (pancake-like wraps) and uthappam (thicker version of dosa). Another defining trait of the food is the prevalence of sambar (lentil stew) alongside many of the meals.

At Sagar Cafe, located next to Viceroy and run by the owners of this long lauded Devon establishment, the goal is to satiate the taste for Southern Indian food not fulfilled by Viceroy. With an inviting, slightly refined decor - black shiny granite tables flanked by tall black leather booths and Bollywood pop tunes - Sagar also functions as a midway point between takeout joint and fancy dining.

This casual cafe offers a menu of food inspired by Southern India (appetizers, dosas and wraps; fish, chicken and lamb dishes) in addition to many dishes identical to the Viceroy menu next door. In typical Indian fashion, there are a whopping amount of choices. Choose from Viceroy favorites such as chicken tikka masala ($11.95). Or opt for a Southern Indian treat such as masala dosa ($7.95), onion kava dosa ($7.95) or a special dinner ($15.95) that includes sizzling tandoori chicken, reshmi kabab, butter chicken, dal, rice and bread.

Typical Southern Indian food incorporates plenty of vegetables and rice, evident in the wide-ranging vegetarian entrees here (there are 12). Kadhai paneer ($9.50) consists of homemade cottage cheese sauteed with red and green peppers, onions and tomatoes. Dal makhni ($9.50) contains a mix of black lentils tossed with tomatoes, garlic, chilies and ginger.

Wraps offer inexpensive, no-frills fare. The chicken tikka wrap ($6.95) includes shredded tandoori chicken, onions, cilantro and chutney rolled in a romali roti.

Don't forget that South Indian tends be spicier. To balance out the fire, munch on keem naan ($3.50) stuffed with chopped lamb and cilantro, and wash it down with a cooling mango lassi ($2.99).

For dessert, try mango kulfi ($4.50), homemade mango ice cream or pista kulfi ($4.50), homemade ice cream mixed with saffron, pistachio, nuts and cardamom.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Marla Seidell