Formerly: THIS RESTAURANT CLOSED IN JANUARY FOR RENOVATIONS. IT WILL REOPEN AS VENTUNO IN LATE FEBRUARY.

Taking cues from mobsters and hookers, the powers behind other South Loop hotspots Opera and Gioco have fashioned a warehouse-cum-bistro with touches of Capone. The former distillery/booze-haven (during Prohibition, it was the first place Elliot Ness and his crew cracked down on) now serves American fare in a see-and-be-seen setting.

The decor follows along the lines of "upscale prostitute," which isn't a slam on the designers—they drew inspiration from the glamour of Chicago's old vice district brothels when crafting the pink, green and very velvety red room. Owner Jerry Kleiner upped the "wow factor" with Vegas-y, gilded-print leather chairs and huge trees on the patio. If you ask nicely, they might even let you take a look at the bootleggers' tunnel that gave the spot its name. During renovations, they discovered the secret passage and a metal plate inscribed with "Room 21."

With so much style, how is the substance? For starters, the wine list ranges from a $7 glass of pinot grigio to a $650 bottle of cabernet with Cristal and champagne in between. The upscale American menu features appetizers like chicken confit ($9) and Prime Steak Sliders (three for $12), and entrees like a four-bone rack of lamb ($38) and a glazed gargantuan pork chop served with spaetzle and a fennel puree. On Sundays, if you make it in before 2 p.m. you can catch the brunch menu.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Karl Klockars