The menu at Roli's (named after owners Jose and Rosalinda Tenorio's 6-year-old son) doesn't immediately appear to differ from most Mexican joints. The usual assortment of quesadillas, burritos, carne asada and fajitas reigns. But business executives and couples on date night are lured by its French-bistro feel and recession-friendly prices.

A couple of things on the regional (Michoacan) menu stand out. For starters, the mole - an enticing concoction of peppers (red poblano or green gallilo), almonds, chocolate and seasonings - is offered in the chicken with mole sauce ($9.95) and chicken or cheese enchiladas ($9.25). Another banger-for-your-buck is Roli's combination plate - a smorgasbord of beef taco, chicken enchilada, bean tostada, tamale, rice and beans and guacamole - sold for just $11.95. The lunch special (served daily from 10 a.m.-3 p.m.) offers plates of chicken flautas, tamales, tacos, or chile rellenos for a sweet $6.75. The place's BYOB option helps you keep things even cheaper.

With just 66 seats (30 seats in the back can be booked in advance for a private party), Roli's is a place for conversation and quiet. Decor bespeaks 19th-century Franophile influence, with cafe society tables decked with elegant white tablecloths and a sparse interior of bright yellow walls. Crosses and dried red peppers on the walls function as modest yet cheerful accompaniment.

Other perks include breakfast (served daily from 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m.), with champions like chilaquiles with eggs (scrambled or over easy), in red or green sauce ($6.50), and steak with eggs ($6.50). Seafood is another draw. The jumbo grilled shrimp ($13.95) are marinated in garlic, green onions and served with salad. Shrimp fajitas ($14.95) kick out the most expensive dish on the moderate-priced menu.

Horchata makes for a sweet and creamy way to wash down those spicy enchiladas. And for dessert, pastel 3 leches (cake infused with three milks and rompope syrup), of course.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Marla Seidell