If this Peruvian eatery is an accurate reflection on the rest of the nation, I am packing my bags for Lima pronto. This Bucktown eatery is formal, but not too fancy. The decorative placemats and matching chairs, the tie-wearing staff and immaculate table setting suggest a propriety belied by the throng of young children roughhousing among the servers.

The menu's design may be simple, but page upon page of enticing recipes make the decision of what to order exceedingly complex. The entrees are broken down into five categories: chicken, lobster, shrimp, ceviche and steak. The main courses are served with a starch and vegetables on the side; feel free to further compliment with Rinconcito's full bar. Most meals are served in a red or white wine sauce and cost less than $18. Put your heads close together and select the several-course entree for two, priced at $36.90: The vegetarian entree consists principally of seafood and paella, while the meat-eaters' version is heavy on both pork and chicken. If you are hankering for a snack to kick-start your meal, the decisions only get harder, with tamales, calamari and boiled potatoes competing for your attention.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Patrick Corcoran