There's a fine line between El Salvadoran food and Mexican food. Those not so caught up on the intricacies of Central American countries might easily confuse the two, but once they've had a hand-slapped, just-grilled pupusa (which El Salvador is famous for) they might find reason to bone up on their geography. Those are some mighty varied lands south of the border and we now have one more local hole-in-the-wall to show us the way.
Food this freshly prepared also requires a lesson in patience. Each pupusa (a thick CD-sized corn patty stuffed with meats, veggies and cheeses) is pounded to order and takes a spell to roll out of the tidy kitchen, but for $2 each, who cares?
The traditional topping, curtido (a vinegary coleslaw relish) pops out with each pupusa and you even get a couple of homemade salsas to poke around in. We like to toss on a bit of cold crema for good measure, and we even plop it square in the middle of their painstakingly tender hen tamale. That is, if they're serving hen tamales that day. This family run business is still working on keeping the house fully stocked with what the menu promises, and we think it's charming. If they happen to be out of something, it's just all the more reason to try a new pupusa ingredient (like chicharron)!
The left side of the menu at this former American grill is peppered with common Mexican favorites: meat-topped sopes, tacos al pastor, huevos rancheros and overflowing tortas. You'll even find a bit of diner food trolling out of the kitchen – cheeseburgers, chicken tenders and the like. But, trust us, the regulars sure as hell ain't coming in for a plate of chix tenders. Nope, these cats already know their world geography 101 and are looped into the joy that is a pupusa.
Wash your bounty down with a cold glass of tamarind juice, and if you're lucky, you might pop in when the cream-filled empanadas are in the house. You gotta show up early for these sugary puffs, though; they go fast.
Centerstage Reviewer: Misty Tosh