Cut from an urban sprawl template in the middle of an Evanston strip mall, Portofino's compensates with subtle Mediterranean and Italian authenticities. Named after a scenic fishing port, the place pairs Greek favorites like falafel and cevapi (lamb sausage in pita bread) with some Neapolitan style pies ($8-$17).

The pastas are straight Italian, spotlighting a homemade pappardelle special with a savory truffle butter sauce. And then, of course, everything America turned Italian into – chicken parm, spaghetti and meatballs – dished with a side salad, all under $10. But the Greek tones seem to be the real object of affection, offering kalamata olive, feta and gyro za toppings. Baked potatoes even get some gyro sauce love.

Business is usually carry-out and delivery in the three-tabled space. But a handful of fried mushroom and mozeralla stick apps dominate the off-campus high school lunch set. Especially since slices (w/toppings) hit the wallet softly under $3.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul