It would be great if we could all sit around like those jokers in "Big Night" or kick it over some spumante like Cher and her dad in "Moonstruck." But these days, with the economy tightening, family style klatches that last hours on end aren't in the cards.

Still, grabbing and going in the name of work time efficiency doesn't mean you have to brown bag it. Pompei's (named after the nearby Our Lady of Pompeii church) cafeteria-style Italian goodies are some of the best red-sauced items on Taylor Street.

The tradition of quality here was established 100 years ago by founder Luigi Davino when Pompeii was nothing more than a bread-and-cheese pizza shack. Today, inside these yellow-hued confines, amidst the dark wood accents, faux chalkboard menus and vintage advertising posters, you'll find pasta, salads and three different kinds of pizza: hand-rolled thin, stuffed, and stromboli styles. The stromboli, a golden-crusted pocket filled with sauce, oozy cheese, and your choice of ingredients, is the best.

If you're trying to keep it healthy, try the Mela Verde salad, featuring romaine studded with crispy prosciutto chips, blue cheese, dried cherries and walnuts.

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Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant