NOW CLOSED...Formerly: Certain snobs think Mexican food means greasy grub after two or nine beers at the local bar. Well, let them think what they want. They don't need to know what they're missing. Maybe their misconception is due to the fact that even an upscale Mexican place like Platiyo (in the mold of the renowned Frontera) retains a laidback, comfortable vibe, an air of festivity bred by colorful tile- and art-work or the ceaseless flow of margaritas. Muy bueno, indeed. Cozy up in front of the adobe fireplace or the long, well-stocked bar, dipping chips in guacamole while you wait for your food. Use the time to soak in the atmosphere: the piņatas that hang from the soaring ceilings, the nifty paper lighting fixtures, and all manner of other stylish south-of-the-border flourishes. Is that mariachi music? Why, you know, I believe it is.
When your food arrives, the festivities really begin. Wood-grilled meats, mole and tomatillo sauces, fish, stuffed chiles, and, of course, the ubiquitous tortillas are combined and served in an astounding array of choices. The shellfish stew and spice-rubbed pork are highly regarded. As for dessert, ay-yi-yi. How's chocolate tart (with a hint, just a hint, of chile) topped with whipped cream and prickly pear sauce sound?
Finish your meal (and perhaps yourself) off with one of the many tequilas and mescals on hand. Have too many of them on a Saturday night and come back the next morning for Sunday brunch. It's called the hair of the dog that bit you, kids.
Reviewed By: Ryan Learmouth