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in Roscoe Village or Paulina on the Brown line

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Pizzeria Serio

View Map1708 W. Belmont Ave., Chicago
Tel: (773) 525-0600
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Editorial Review of Pizzeria Serio

Pizzeria Serio
Lofted out of an old recording studio (Acme) that saw some A-list names over the years, this new Roscoe Village pizza joint struggles to find a niche, losing its touch somewhere between the flop to go Neapolitan or American with its 12-inch and 16-inch pies.

The whole purpose of the EarthStone oven that centerpieces the back-of-the-house is to get its wood burn on, of which Serio is teasing with gas until the owners fix an issue with its hood. And a little more credit can be slung considering Neapolitan is supposed to be light on the sauce.

A dry pink kiss is not a good "light" though, which is a shame, eyeing the old world potential of the extra virgin olive oil, hunks of parsley and oregano and garlic cloves that dress their doughy concoctions. A tease even, rounding out a bunch of other teases: empty soon-to-be craft brew tap heads (BYOB for now), a closed second floor and an oven that is not being used to its 800-degree potential.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul

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Hours

5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 4-10 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday-Tuesday

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