Lofted out of an old recording studio (Acme) that saw some A-list names over the years, this new Roscoe Village pizza joint struggles to find a niche, losing its touch somewhere between the flop to go Neapolitan or American with its 12-inch and 16-inch pies.
The whole purpose of the EarthStone oven that centerpieces the back-of-the-house is to get its wood burn on, of which Serio is teasing with gas until the owners fix an issue with its hood. And a little more credit can be slung considering Neapolitan is supposed to be light on the sauce.
A dry pink kiss is not a good "light" though, which is a shame, eyeing the old world potential of the extra virgin olive oil, hunks of parsley and oregano and garlic cloves that dress their doughy concoctions. A tease even, rounding out a bunch of other teases: empty soon-to-be craft brew tap heads (BYOB for now), a closed second floor and an oven that is not being used to its 800-degree potential.
Average cost: $10-$20
Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul