When a city's deep-dish pizza is as infamous as its mind-blowing architecture, there's something to be said for a thinner-crust that can hold its own. Especially when it comes from a dingy little corner spot in Lincoln Square. I Monelli (which translates to "those rascals") would be the place doling out these classic, Roman-style pies. The joint is run by a collection of Italian men who are serious about the foods of their homeland.
Meet the masterminds behind the whole shebang: owner Marco Schiavoni (of Pizza Metro in Wicker Park) and Chef Giovanni Carzedda (former chef of Pizza D.O.C.). The duo's combined restaurant experience has quickly made this a hot spot to grab some inexpensive, rustic Italian fare. Favorite appetizers include classics like bruschetta; crispy, but not mouth-cutting, this is the stuff of a garlic lover's naughtiest dreams, and scamorza; a thick smoked cheese served on a bed of baby arugula that will change your mind about cheddar for good.
But it's the pizzas that really showcase Carzedda's culinary skills. His hand-tossed, square-cut pies characteristic of Rome are topped with a tomato sauce that'll make you scream meraviglioso! And just wait until you see what's for dessert: tiramisu, panna cotta and profiteroles. I Monelli is BYO, no corkage fee.
Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden