Despite the plethora of new, Neapolitan-style or wood-burning-purist pizza places that have sprung up across Chicago in the past few years, very little ink has been spilled about this tiny storefront, just steps from the Rockwell Brown Line stop. But in the past couple years, Pizza Art Cafe has transformed itself from a lonely little joint to a pretty hoppin' pizza place.

Owner Jasmin Bekto fires up his wood-burning oven on a near-daily basis and creates pizzas to order for dine-in or take-out, and from artichoke hearts and cured beef to salmon or real anchovy, Pizza Art may confuse some with their off-beat options. However, more mainstream choices remain like the margherita with mozzarella and basil, or spinach and garlic. Pizzas hover at the $12-14 mark (one pie per person is a smart order) and soups, salads and pasta dishes also have space on the menu.

PAC then takes things one step further, as Bekto pays homage to his European roots by marrying Italy's most famous food with Eastern European specialties like cevapcici (sausage with warm pita, soft mild cheese and raw onion) and specialty orders like charred octopus. Can't get that at the Little Caesar's on Lawrence, Hot-N-Ready or not.

Service can be hit or miss, but PAC continues to be BYOB with no corkage fee. Delivery remains unavailable, but takeout is always an option. Call from the train, run across the street to the Time Out Tap for a beer, then cross the street and grab your order. But if you haven't stopped in for a while, be ready for a bit of a wait – it might not be the empty place you might recall.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Karl Klockars