It all starts with the bread. Each table is topped with a fresh basket and a bottle of olive oil. Dip, eat and scan the appetizer menu's fried calamari, bruschetta and antipasto dishes. But don't dally too long; you'll want to quickly move on to the main event, the pizza.

After all, D.O.C. is serious about its dough. Taking its name from "Denominazione Di Orgine Controllata," an Italian term used on wine labels to denote wine of a greater quality, Pizza D.O.C. pays attention to its ingredients—as well as the way in which they're prepared.

Choose from one of 15 varieties, like pizza alla capricciosa (mozzarella, mushrooms, artichokes, olives and ham; $12.75) or the popular pizza margherita (fresh mozzarella, dry mozzarella and basil leaf; $11.50). These brick-oven treats are served uncut and intended for the individual; but considering that "individual" means 12 whole inches of thin-crusted goodness, you can easily share with a friend (just ask them to cut it for two). Wash it all down with some beer or wine from the small but well stocked bar.

If you're not in the mood for pizza, there are plenty of other Italian dishes to choose from (pasta, gnocchi, veal, fish…), which are all served in invitingly large portions. Of course, you can always keep things light and order one of D.O.C.'s salads. But why would you do that? When in Rome…eat until it hurts.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Ashley Hamilton