One visit to Panaderia La Central inevitably results in a ferocious loyalty—leaving pastry-hungry regulars frantically digging change from futon crevices and swearing off supermarket CoinStar machines for life. When 40 cents will buy you one of the finest home-style pastries in Chicago, every jangling pocket starts to sound like a chorus of singing angels.

At a glance, the oppressive fluorescent lights and industrial-sized trays stacked high like bookshelves in this little storefront panaderia seem unwelcoming, but the glorious smell wafting down the streets of Logan Square acts like a pair of open arms. Located just steps away from the California Blue Line stop, La Central is perfectly situated to become the most anticipated part of any morning commute. Most items are sold for a paltry 40 cents, so while it's nearly impossible to decipher the contents of the various pastries, turnovers, twists and cookies lining the racks, you've got nearly nothing to lose by taking a chance on one. Selections can be sporadically labeled with hand-printed signs—but if you interpret "manzana" to be some horrid metal band, Mexican soda or the grown-up incarnation of Puerto-Rican sensation Menudo, you're probably better off choosing at random.

While it might be a little scary to consider how many hands fondled your breakfast before you got to it, try not to be discouraged by the self-serve situation. It's all part of the authenticity. Consider dropping a few bucks to fill a whole bag of goodies for the office; you'll get that raise in no time. Don't forget that full loaves of bread are on offer for only a dollar, so picking up a dinner baguette on the way home provides a great excuse for buying another cookie.

Rest assured, La Central is not your ironically hip cupcake haven, and you won't find a single organic, low-fat or Atkins-friendly product in stock. The delicacies lining the silver trays of this bakeshop are built on the holy trifecta of pastry foundations—lard, flour and heaps of white sugar. Yum.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe