Forget Texas. After one bite of pollo de mole, Mexico's southern state of Oaxaca will be your new favorite Southerner. You'll find yourself silly with delight over an impressive amount of whiskeys, tequilas and beers; inexpensive cuisine that is both universal to many Mexican restaurants (such as nachos and quesadillas); and items that are unique to Oaxaca, like the aforementioned pollo de mole Oaxaqueno, a half-chicken covered in a chocolate mole sauce.

There are many pictures of life in the Oaxacan barrios on the walls in the Taqueria, shadowed by a palm tree (possibly real), hanging ferns (most definitely not) and a small picture of the Virgin Mary in the uppermost corner of the restaurant. One gets the impression that the Taqueria wanted to create a home away from home, or at least, something reminiscent of home. For the most part, it succeeds, especially when it comes to the food.

The brave should begin with an appetizer of botana huatulco, a combination of squid, shrimp and octopus (crikey!) sauteed with onions, garlic and olive oil. As far as the $8-$16 entrees go, you have your choice of seafood (including a superb red snapper Veracruz), super tortas (sandwiches bigger than a burrito) or daily specials. I had the enchilada mixteca, a rolled tortilla covered in green salsa, with filling options including cheese, steak and chicken. No matter what filling you choose, let me assure you that you've purchased a one-way ticket to spicytown. With a pleasant atmosphere and a friendly owner, Taqueria La Oaxaquena is sure to make Mexico feel like a very distant home away from home.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jon Graef