After thirty years, Nick's Fishmarket has carved its niche as the sophisticated backdrop of many a big-money deal, but those that prefer their meals without the white-linen treatment (and the hefty price tag that dangles from it) dine upstairs. Hardly the scrappy little brother you'd expect, Nick's Fishmarket Grill boasts outstanding cuisine and attentive service in laid-back casual environs. Floor-to-ceiling windows and sleek seating meet hardwood floors in this downtown bar-turned-bistro.

Seafood is done simply here, with grilled salmon, tuna, catfish and tilapia anchoring the menu alongside a Kobe burger ($14) that has no business in a fishhouse. The lobster bisque is the same addictive stuff from downstairs, but the main dining room can’t lay claim to the enormous salads on offer here. The Jamaican Jerk Salmon Salad comes with a heavenly citrus vinaigrette; Legendary Larry's Salad features pan-seared shrimp, Maui onions and hearts of palm; heaps of lobster, shrimp and scallops top the decadent Louie Salad, a steal at $24. When you're craving carbs, Buffalo rock shrimp, tequila-lime chicken and steak and bleu cheese takes fill out the flatbread menu. Although the chocolate molten cake leaves a lot to be desired, you should really drink your dessert anyway. Nick's Signature Champagne'tini is the libation of choice with Chambord, Peach Schnapps and Champagne.

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe