Unlike New York or Montreal, there is not a bagel stand on every corner in Chicago. Thankfully, there's at least the corner of Touhy and Kilpatrick avenues, where for 20 years, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, a hardcore group of bakers turn out some of the best baked dough circles around.

While NYBB does not have the lightness of a Montreal bagel or the heft of New York one, they stand up fine to the highest pile of pastrami and the creamiest of NYBB house cream cheeses (the best of which is the pink smoky salmon-infused lox spread). While the white formica-lined counters here are topped with wire baskets filled with a large selection of flavors, the onion bagels, featuring caramelized golden onion bits that gloriously perfume the paper bags that hold them, are the best. The blood-pressure-threatening (not to mention drug-test-monkeywrenching) salt and poppy are also good.

Just as salty as the bagels is the no-nonsense staff who expect you to sputter out your order in seconds flat or they'll move on to another customer. It's a case of more bark than bite. Don't let the schtick intimidate you, lest you forget to pick up the other staple Jewish eats here like chopped liver, Doc Brown’s soda and corned beef.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant