Named after a small village in Iran, this husband-and-wife-owned restaurant brings traditional Persian food right to the heart of Rogers Park. Together, the couple does it all; he cooks and she runs the rest of the place.

For a restaurant with a one-man kitchen, Masouleh doles out some decent dishes; it just tends to be a while before they actually hit the table. Stave off your hunger with one of three garlic-infused appetizers ($3.50 each). Try the mirza ghasemi, a combination of chopped eggplant with tomato and garlic, served up like a dip alongside a basket full of warm pita wedges. Save some of these doughy chunks for your next course, aashe. This regional stew changes daily at Masouleh, but you can usually expect some type of ground beef and a psychotic mix of spices. A popular aashe blend includes pomegranate juice and fresh mint.

For the main course, choose from a variety of meat kabobs and beef stews ($8-$10), just don't get too excited when you see the lamb shank on the menu. The tender cut is so special here that it's only available on weekends. Masouleh offers a little something for the herbivores too. Vegetarian dishes include grilled eggplant, ground walnut and baked veggies, all appropriately served with steamy mountains of rice.

The dining room is small and strangely decorated; clear plastic covers lay on the tables and '80s sconces and votive holders offer a slightly retro setting. But just when you're ready to rock out to some Ziggy Stardust, Persian music suddenly streams from little black boxes slung near the ceiling. Revel in the worldly beats; it's going to be a while before you get your kabobs.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden