NOW CLOSED...Formerly:
It's not unusual for a Nuevo Latino restaurant to almost blind patrons with its liberal use of bright colors and extravagant decor, but Mas, located at the east edge of Wicker Park, relies on dim lighting and earth tones to create its intimate, upscale setting. The restraint is fitting; open since 1998, Mas' reputation for creatively plated dishes and sensational cocktails leaves little to prove in the face of the Nuevo Latino trend.
Using regional farmers and producers whenever possible, executive chef John Manion's menu dishes taco, tostada and arepa-like appetizers and entrees that include conejo (braised rabbit and chorizo with saffron risotto), pescado (tilapia and boniato with an olive salsa) and pato (duck breast with seared brussel sprouts). But the most raved-about dish is a vegetarian's dream—the wild mushroom, goat cheese and walnut empanadas appetizer—and serves as a fair indication of the strength of the "primero dishes in general.
Don't expect to visit this corner restaurant without giving in to the fabulous list of cocktails. Sangria blanco, prickly pear margaritas and caipirinhas meet with the restaurant's specialty cocktail: the Mas y Mas Margarita, made with blue agave reposado tequila. Sample away on MMMMondays, when all margaritas, mojitos and martinis cost just five bucks.
Brunch is served as elegantly as dinner, but this midday weekend meal is not offered in the winter.
Reviewed By: Sarah Dahnke
