Less is more. At least that's the concept at La Palapita, where your choices are limited to four food items: tacos, burritos, tortas and tostadas.
Its central location (close to Portage Park, Old Irving Park and Jefferson Park) makes it popular with the lunch crowd. Come early and find the mail carrier exclaiming how good his tacos taste to the few construction workers two tables over.
The food had better be good, since nothing else is worth shouting about. The exterior is drowned in bright yellow paint under a barn-red roof, while the inside features uninspiring touches like green trimming around the doors and windows, a few paintings of Mexican villages and an Aztec-calendar on the plaster-white walls. Not even a tiny back room with a bench and a few arcade games entices you to stay beyond your meal. Even the simple menu suggests La Palapita caters to a take-out or eat-and-go crowd. If you must, personalize your experience by playing a tune from the jukebox or purchase a Virgin Mary charm bracelet from the gumball machine.
The staff is quick and expressionless, but if you come often enough they’ll toss you a nod. Before your meal, munch on tortilla chips served with salsa verde. Considering the number of choices, selecting a meal comes easy and cheap, no more than $6. Scarf down three or four tacos (each $2) stuffed with fresh steak, cheese, cilantro and onions. Or go for the burrito ($5.45), said to be the best in town.
Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez
