With all the vibrancy of the Ashland Avenue/18th Street intersection, you might find yourself overlooking La Cebollita Grill. Perhaps skaters rolling by or the flapping of pigeons not too far above your head distracts you, or maybe, looking at it from the outside, you mistake the restaurant for any other Pilsen pit stop. Don't be fooled; inside, flavorful dishes and progressive decor appease longtime residents and transplants alike.

The interior features many hallmarks of modern design, including recessed lighting and an exposed ventilation system. High-backed, cherry-finished chairs cuddle up with four-top tables positioned in organized rows throughout the room. Artwork adds splashes of color to an already eccentric space with orange walls and a brown ceiling. Overall, the room lacks an overtly Mexican theme (especially with the Miley Cyrus/Fergie soundtrack), letting the food do the talking instead.

La Cebollita claims the best tamales in Pilsen, made from scratch daily and sold for the same price as those of street vendors. A table at street level, with a colorful view of yellow storefront-signs, aqua church-steeples and heavy foot-traffic will keep you occupied while you wait (the food usually takes a while). You might notice local actor and Pilsen resident C.J. Dickinson, best known for his flamboyant character in the ongoing Andersonville soap opera "The Ville."

When you finally dig in to your camarones al mojo de ajo (garlic shrimp) or the sizzling bistec a la Mexican (strips of skirt steak simmered in onion, tomatoes and jalapenos served with rice and beans, it'll be worth the wait. Entrees float between $6-$12.95 and a dinner for two can easily hover around $20. La Cebollita is BYO.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez