There's a certain duality in Morocco that is as contrary as it is complementary: modern culture mixed with ancient tradition, the new versus the old, East mixed with West. It's only natural, then, that a best-of-both-worlds approach would carry over to the Moroccan-themed La Brochette.

With a nod to Morocco's French influence, the restaurant has scallops, shrimp and fish that would fit in well at a Parisian bistro. Hints of Italian and Lebanese-style cooking are tossed in for good measure, making La Brochette's menu unique even among the ethnic fusion eateries of Wicker Park.

Start with belly-busting appetizers like briwats, phylo filled with chicken, shrimp or veggies and fried. As for the main courses, the lemon chicken with olives is tart and flavorful with just the right amount of citrusy tang, offset by dazzlingly crisp vegetables. On our visit, the sold-out salmon was replaced with tender tilapia that still managed to pack a savory wallop despite lacking its tomato sauce topping. However, the chicken schwarma—a Mediterranean restaurant staple—was delightfully charred on the edges but lacked juiciness in the middle. Beverage options are limited to coffee, tea and soda. Luckily, the BYOB policy is there to save the day ($3 corkage fee).

La Brochette's saffron and jewel-colored curtains, bright walls, lofty ceilings and soft lighting create a space that's both stylish and relaxing. It's a linen tablecloth kind of place, but plenty of patrons were blue jean-clad and jacket-free. But beware that the atmosphere is so relaxed it borders on lazy: The service can be eerily distant, forcing you to wave down your server before getting a glance. The kitchen also seems a tad forgetful, spacing on toppings for meats and bread for sandwiches.

La Brochette also offers a lunch buffet every weekday.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Kim Bellware