Perhaps the perfect bistro…French country inn charm meets an urban contemporary kitchen serving authentic entrees, crispy pommes frites and staggering creme brulee. Owner Georges “Kiki” Cuisance, a native of Eastern France with more than 50 years of restaurant experience, and executive chef Javier Guzman present reasonably priced bistro classics in a rustic and homey environment that’s as unaffected as the food.

Selecting among the traditional but delectable appetizers can be a difficult task. French onion soup with Gruyere (widely held to be the city's best), ragout de champignons (a medley of sauteed wild and domestic mushrooms) and a foie gras terrine with walnut dressing. The modest selection of entrees give credence to the “quality, not quantity” adage. Choose from sauteed breast of duck, lamb stew, roasted chicken, steak and calf’s liver. Ordering from the dessert menu should be a requirement; the aforementioned creme brulee (with a layer of chocolate on the bottom) and warm apple tart with cinnamon ice cream standout among a list of standouts. An excellent choice for a memorable lunch as well.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz