Housed in more than 4,000 square feet of faux-exposed brick and museum-sized recreations of Picasso paintings, the ambitions of this Japanese sushi and udon den are almost imperialistic in humble Logan Square, where taquerias outnumber convenience stores. It even offers its own limo service.

That's the way gentrification goes. In the space, once a Mexican restaurant itself, traces of its layout can still be felt in the margarita bar that now chills fish for use in a globe-spanning maki lineup covering everywhere from the oyster tempura San Francisco to the seared tuna Kyoto.

A bento box-friendly lunch menu and some multi-note yakisoba (noodle) and don (grilled) dishes fluffed with crispy eggs and caramelized unagi sauce ground some economic sense at under $15 a head, especially with its BYOB status. But once another 200 seats open up in its first floor lounge, expect a heavier push of nigiri and sashimi platters aimed at that limo set with names like Kamasutra ($180) and the "chef's surprise" VIP Night Out ($86.75).

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul