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in North Center or Western on the Brown line

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Kan Pou

View Map4256 N. Western Ave., Chicago
Tel: (773) 866-2839
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Editorial Review of Kan Pou

Occupying a stretch of Western Avenue, already a no stranger to top-notch Thai (Sticky Rice, Spoon Thai), this Chonburi-influenced (ocean-side province in Thailand) dresses its differences in bountiful seafood additions to curry, pad norms. And the butter cookies, baked by the owner's wife, are smilingly thrust upon you, even if you're just waiting for take-out.

Not that cookies-by-force are such a terrible thing, aside from caloric reasons. But these cookies – sesame seed, lemongrass, coconut and clove – encased in old-school jars behind the bar, are a stripe only Kan Pou wears, amidst the aforementioned Thai joints people do overshoot in pursuit of buzz.

But if Kan Pou is to become the new front-runner on the avenue, it must trim the cost of its panang, green and red curries a buck or two down from $8 to even the field. With slow-roasted veggies and spicy coconut milk, they are equally as delicious, yet as equally portioned as its contemporaries.

In the meantime, set sights on the Chonburi goods, like the multiple herb and hot chili Broken Sea, that is the most expensive dish on the menu at $12; but is stocked with so many chopstick grabs of shrimp, squid, mussels and scallops that Kan Pou can't possibly be making a profit on by sticking to its said price. And the living-room charm of the place, white tablecloths and seating capacity capped at 20, will make the deal feel that much more exclusive.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul

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Hours

11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; noon-10:30 p.m. Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday

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