Is it perverse or genius to sell Tums mere feet from a bustling deli counter that does brisk trade in brisket? Either way, you'll find both inside Gordono's Pharmacy, roughly half of which is an actual pharmacy, the other half being occupied by a sandwich counter and display case, known as JB's Deli.

If the "Kosher Style" sign isn't enough to convince you that this deli is the real deal, rest assured that the bagels here are delivered daily from New York Bagel and Bialy, a suburban bagel joint that's widely considered to be the best in the Chicago area. The corned beef and lox, on the other hand, are flown in from New York directly.

The deli serves up meat by the pound or piled onto thick sandwiches, with chopped liver, pastrami, corned beef and soft salami being the most popular choices. Other comfort foods on hand include lox, chub, knishes, kugel and blintzes, with homemade soups and a staggering number of salads rounding out the offerings. Take it home or squeeze your way into the cluster of high purple tables near the front of the shop.

If you've got any room left after your sandwich, head to the ice cream counter to polish off your meal. Crowded with bins of everything from Swedish fish to sugar-free chocolates, the counter's 36 flavors of ice cream, gelato, sorbet and Italian ice cover cravings from hazelnut gelato to mango sorbet. Go on and indulge. Remember, the Tums are close at hand.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Rockwood