The sign of Jarvis Grill and Wok says it all: Italian beef, Buffalo wings, Philly steaks and more. Just a stone's throw from the Red Line Jarvis stop, this short-order cook place is perfect for picking up grub on the run.

Inside the tiny storefront, a 50-something Korean couple is so busy dishing up hot orders they don't bother to look up or say hello. Food is life, and time is money. The couple may not speak English (not really), nor be able to give directions over the phone (I called first), but efficiency is their middle name.

The interior is stuffy and airless, not updated since the '60s. Yet the space is scrubbed clean, with plenty of plants such as Japanese bonsai adding a bit of serene in an otherwise drab ambience. In addition to the retro food board posted above the grill, bearing an ancient looking Coca-Cola sign, there's various ads covering the walls, blaring slogans such as "Try Our Gyros!" and "Red Hot Dog, Yes." Paradoxically, framed pictures of Christian inspirational speakers hanging on the same wall as these ads. Just as out of sorts is the bulgogi (sauteed with green onions, green peppers and onions) served with rice ($7.95) alongside the menu's Philly cheese steak, gyros and Italian beef (all $6.90 with fries and pop).

New specials (which hang in the window) include chicken wrap ($5.95) and chicken pita ($5.10), suggesting a slightly updated (read: healthy) addition to the vintage menu and environs with a Korean touch.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Marla Seidell