The term "fusion" in Jai Yen's self-identified cuisine is a tad misleading: Other than a handful of noodle dishes such as Pad Thai Jen Yen (traditional pad Thai served over an omelet) and Goy See Mee (crispy egg noodles, broccoli, carrots, straw mushrooms and water chestnuts in a light gravy), the menu is by and large Japanese, with an emphasis on sushi. Appetizers such as a generously portioned seaweed salad, gomae (boiled spinach) and gyoza kick off the cooked options, and tempura, udon and soba noodle soups and teriyaki comprise the entrees. The tireless selection of maki gets creative when it comes to specialty rolls; the Jai Yen signature roll replaces rice with a thinly sliced, fruit-roll-up-style strip of cucumber wrapped around seaweed, shrimp smothered and topped with a dollop of raw scallop. The meal ends on a sweet note with fruit-flavored wrapped taffies accompanying your tab.

The interior is tidy though nothing to write home about: Low ceilings hover over a dining room flanked by exposed brick and honeydew-colored walls, with two illuminated fish tanks stacked atop one another, built into the wall. A sushi bar resides in back, and a small, nearly enclosed room, provides ample space and privacy for a party of 15 or 20 friends.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Jessica Herman