Tired of feeling like a small fish in a big pond when eating at local sushi bars bustling with hipsters and a cold staff? Tired of the overpriced dishes and whiffs of sewer water? Then swim upstream to Elmwood Park's Inari Sushi, where the thick cuts of fish are the only things fishy about this business.

Inari, owned by Angelo Lollino, shares the busy North Avenue strip with a number of other eateries, including Lollino's popular gelato shop, Massa. The restaurant presents a perfect under-the-radar joint without forfeiting a sexy feel. A sleek outdoor patio, reminiscent of Chaise Lounge in Wicker Park with queen palms, an awning and vanilla curtains, envelopes an attractive number of residents diverse in age.

Inside, relaxing booths offer adequate back support for groups of friends huddling beside a giant Buddha portrait. Loners grab stools beside a lagoon-blue bar where specialty cocktails, like the Geisha Margarita, start at $8. Down tempo beats, dark wood floors, live orchids, recessed lighting and the scent of ocean mist oils augment the lounge-like atmosphere.

Begin your night with The Zaza: Malibu rum, Midori, mango and passion fruit juice garnished with a pineapple wedge, $8. For those wishing to make the most of their Far East experience, the bar showcases a number of sakes by the glass, $4-$9. Pair them with the Inari manila clams (steamed manila clams on a bed of white rice and baby bok choy tossed in ponzu soy sauce, $9) and the Tiger Eye (smoked salmon, cream cheese, stuffed jalapeno and fried tempura, $16). The menu also features meatless dishes like sesame tofu and spicy basil noodle (both $12) for the more finicky of eaters.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez