Normally, when the hunger for pho strikes, Chicagoans head to Argyle Street, where Vietnamese restaurants are as plentiful as parking tickets. Tank Noodle (on the corner of Argyle and Broadway), for one, has made the favored list of several big-name foodies and has become so popular that it's often a challenge just finding an empty seat. Fortunately, there are a few off-the-radar spots like Hoanh Long, where those in need of pho can get their fix, without the wait.

The small space, located on a busy stretch of Lincoln Avenue, sits wedged between a block of retail shops and other unassuming eateries. Any sudden blinking will likely cause you to miss the place entirely, but the interior appears more spacious than it actually is. A cluster of small tables and a row of banquettes make room for about 40 and one large banquette near the window provides seating for larger groups. By way of décor, Hoanh Long could be classified as your average hole-in-the-wall, but its dim lighting, clean dining area and affordable menu make up for its lack of glitz and glam.

Things really start to shine with Hoanh Long's list of exotic appetizers, including the papaya salad with shrimp and pork and the spring rolls with crispy jicama, Chinese sausages and egg, $7.95 and $4.95. As for the pho, we recommend the pho tai bo vien, a traditional noodle soup with rare beef and meatballs, $7.50. The large portion is nearly enough for two and comes with all the appropriate accoutrements (lemon wedges, fresh mint, greens and bean sprouts).

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden