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in Chinatown or Cermak/Chinatown on the Red line

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Golden Bull

View Map242 W. Cermak Rd., Chicago
Tel: (312) 808-1668
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Editorial Review of Golden Bull

An authentic Chinatown gem that brings seafood options to a dive atmosphere. It may be a cliche at this point, but there is something genuinely exciting about eating in some dingy dive, especially Chinese restaurants, because those tend to either supply: a) the worst tasting, most ambiguous-looking, most overpriced meal you've ever had, or b) the most perfectly cooked, most wonderfully prepared food that wins the admiration of your stomach with every drop of their sweet n' sour sauce.

Opinions on dives tend to fluctuate between each of these extremes (with devout customers willing to die for their beliefs), but probably not for Chinatown's Golden Bull. Charming (yet slightly stained) Chinese banners hang on the wall inside a small (but not all that confined) dining room that should (along with the consistently flavorsome food) satisfy a majority of patrons who love obscure gems.

While there's a few popularized American dishes sprinkled on the menu, the most inviting options happen to be ones not usually offered (or not usually ordered) in a typical Chinese joint. Deep-fried quails with ginger and green onions or baby clams (boiled or stir-fried) are two of countless seafood entrees ($5.95 for lunch, $10.95 for dinner). Non-seafood options include pea-pod leaves with a subtle garlic sauce and the usual deep-fried chicken/pork affair (and aside from those options, grease is quite rare).

While it may help establish authenticity, Golden Bull's menu could be confusing territory for some non-Chinese-speaking patrons. Chinese characters fill the page, easily outnumbering their English counterparts. That's not to say you won't understand what you're ordering (and, even if you didn't, this feels like the type of place where being a little adventurous may be rewarding), but it may seem like you're missing out. Take a friend familiar with the Chinese language and culture for a better understanding of what's to offer.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Andy Seifert

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Hours

3 p.m.-1 a.m. Tuesday-Friday; noon-1 a.m. Saturday-Monday

Directions to Golden Bull

Our directions are included with our maps of Golden Bull
chicago

chicago, metromix