If you're a Chicagoan and you aren't wise to the ways of the "golden" restaurants around town, chances are you haven't either been A) hungry at 3:30 a.m.; B) needing a booze-sponge at 3:30 a.m.; C) hungover anywhere from 7 a.m. through the afternoon hours, or D) looking for a cheap no-frills dinner aimed at the senior set. From the Golden Nugget to the Golden Apple to North Center's
Golden Angel, when you see a "golden" in front of a diner you can pretty much guess what you're in for.
In this particular case, the Golden Angel is an oasis in a sea of fancy brunches, overpriced egg dishes, gussied up pancakes and gourmet hamburgers. That the places that serve upscale fare exist isn't a bad thing at all - but it's good for every neighborhood to have an outlet for when you just want a simple omelet, a ham-and-eggs breakfast, a plate of silver dollar pancakes or home fries.
Is the food great at the Golden Angel? No. But it's functional, it's dependable, and it's always open. Breakfasts are available whenever you roll out of bed, and throughout the rest of the day and late-night hours you can get your fair share of chicken dinners, breaded fish, reuben sandwiches (open-faced), chopped steak or other selections, some on the ubiquitous "specials" menu with soup, salad, bread and a drink for just shy of $6. Service is similarly ... "unpretentious," shall we say, but certainly not abusive nor uncaring.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Karl Klockars