Located in a broken down strip mall in the shadows of the Dan Ryan, far from Chinatown's boisterous center, this joint feels like a secret dim sum speakeasy. A sure sign of quality, the huge expanse is always packed with a boisterous crowd of Chinese families chowing down. For most of the wait staff, English is definitely a second language, meaning you'll have to rely on your senses and your ability to point at what you want more than at any of the other places during the weekend cart service.

Your persistence will be rewarded with steamed spinach and ground shrimp dumplings that have a sweet kick from the shrimp and an earthy grassy tang from the leafy spinach. During the week, there's no cart service, instead you get a list of dishes from which to choose, but at $1.60 per item, this is one of the best dim sum deals in town.

Dinner (sans the dim sum option) features entrees like shark's fin soup, scallops with broccoli in XO sauce and sauted squid with celery in a shrimp paste sauce. Plum wine and the Chinese beer Chin Tao round out the drink options.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant