Though Mexican eats are no stranger to Logan Square, Fonda del Mar brings a classed-up take on the genre to the 'hood. A bright spot on an otherwise tired stretch of Fullerton, you'll enter to vibrant oranges, an open kitchen and incredible photos shot in a Mexican surfing town. Owned and manned by Raul Arreola, a long-time student of Rick Bayless, the eatery presents plenty of straight-from-the sea eats, beginning with a selection of ceviches and cocteles (cocktails) packed with everything from crab to octopus to shrimp.

Though there are a handful of mole- and sauce-covered meat offerings (lamb, pork, skirt steak), seafood unsurprisingly takes center stage. A number of shrimp dishes, like the camerones with vanilla sauce, are joined by red snapper, trout, mahi-mahi, the day's boat catch and arroz a la tumbada, a Mexican version of paella. Cap off your $11-$16 entree with a postre like crisy fritters with brown sugar-caramel sauce.

Centerstage Reviewer: Zinny Fandel