Thai-restaurant frequenters will be pleased to find a more traditional spin on the popular cuisine at this homey storefront in cute-as-a-button Edgebrook. The spotless dining room is a kaleidoscope of yellows, greens and reds, and the cooking style is reminiscent of what you'd find in a remote mountain village in Thailand.

Start with an order of chive dumplings, an incredibly tasty biscuit-like pancake stuffed with brilliant green sauteed chives. If you're into fish, try the spicy tilapia pad chai, a delicious mix of deep-fried tilapia and several types of Thai eggplant, topped off with a string of on-the-vine peppers. The mile-long menu also features Thai standards like panang curry, basil fried rice, ginger chicken and a handful of noodle dishes.

The specials chalkboard changes frequently, and you've not quite lived until you've tasted kauy tiew rua (beef noodle soup with beef balls). The picturesque bowl of soup is enough to keep tongues wagging, and when you catch a whiff of steaming tender beef, green onions, chile sauce and fresh cilantro, you'll feel like you've died and gone to heaven; albeit an Asian one.

We were surprised to find a smattering of dried baby shrimp in our vegetarian papaya salad, so if you're sensitive to certain foods make sure to inquire about additional ingredients perhaps not listed on the menu. BYOB.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Misty Tosh