Chef Luis Perez puts a French spin on his Mexican eats (gleaned from the bistro cooking he did under Jack Jones). Here, the BYOB policy is joined by white tablecloths, attentive service and dishes with a twist.

I expected to find an absolutely crazy-eclectic pairing of tastes, dishes like pommes frites dipped in salsa and stewed rabbit fajitas. But the pairings seem more wise than weird: The sopa de frijoles negros comes accented by grilled bananas, pickled jalapenos and, why not, crème fraiche, and the famed Dorado nachos trade chorizo for smoked duck.

The menu is seafood heavy, with plenty of shrimp and crab options, like the crab cakes served over guacamole and smoked charred tomato sauce. If the jicama salad is on special, you must try it: teeming with slivers of the crunchy fruit, it came studded with avocado dressed in a sweet honey vinaigrette that made the avocado taste downright remarkable.

Entrees run along the lines of grilled pork tenderloin with whipped Cajun sweet potatoes and grilled vegetables, and crab meat-encrusted salmon over chipotle mashed potatoes with basil, tomatoes, capers and a citrus beurre blanc; pricing runs $12.95-$19.95.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Zinny Fandel