Fusing the earthy with the sophisticated is never an easy endeavor, but the folks at Deleece have been pulling it off since 1995. With exposed brick walls, photographs of oversized plants, low lighting, and a wait staff dressed in black shirts and jeans, the easy environment takes a backseat to the food.

First things first: The butter flavored with honey Dijon mustard that's served with bread at dinner is divine and should be devoured. Only then should you move on to an evening menu packed with seafood appetizers like ginger scallion crab cakes and sea scallops served with Chinese black bean and ginger vinaigrette. Fun salads include a California butter lettuce version with spiced walnuts, goat cheese, roasted peppers and sherry vinaigrette ($6).

Many entrees offers classic American cuisine with an Asian twist, including the Seafood "Stew" with scallops, shrimp and mussels in spicy red Thai curry ($17). My date usually opts for one of the steak specials, always less than $22, with mashed potatoes and a green vegetable. Speaking of specials, Deleece offers two of the city's greatest weekly dinner deals: a $20 three-course meal on Monday and Tuesday and half-price bottles of wine on Wednesday.

But what keeps me coming back is one of the best weekend brunch meals you'll find in Chicago. From the Cinnamon "Upside Down" French Toast ($6.95) to the Breakfast Pasta, spaghetti tossed with tomatoes, goat cheese, scrambled eggs, garlic and herbs ($7.50), fresh and inventive brunch options abound. In the summer there is outdoor dining to boot.

Centerstage Reviewer: Joanne Hinkel