It may not serve Chicago's best pizza (or even much Chicago-style pizza), but D'Agostino's plays the part of the pizzeria as well as anyone. Cheap domestic pitchers and square-cut, thin-crust pies top checkerboard tablecloths at wood-trim booths. Specialties run from the artery-taxing cheeseburger, taco or Italian beef pizzas to the sundried tomato and vegetarian specials. Select your own pasta and sauce in half or full-size portions ($6 and $8, respectively), or shell out a buck or two more for baked manicotti or lasagna. The menu's broad enough to satisfy diners inspired to chow on ribs, halibut or Reuben grinders at a pizzeria; if you've left room for dessert, it rewards you with cannoli, tiramisu and a homemade chocolate cookie in a sundae bowl.

Delivery and take out are available everyday, as early as 11 a.m. on weekends. The ample dining room and patio are bustling on Cubs game day when fans enjoy beer specials and watch the plasma screens in the pub section. Larger groups can book catered affairs in the revamped party room. If North Siders often let you down, D'Agostino's friendly, low-key mood helps soften the blow. It's a scene even a Sox fan could love.

Centerstage Reviewer: Justin Sondak